Wellington is a town that everyone I met just raved about, but for some reason just didn't do it for me. Of course most people saw Christchurch as a "one-day max" stop (I spent perhaps ten and wanted more), so maybe we're all just into different things. Regardless, Wellington does have a stellar museum called the Te Papa, a large fraction of which is dedicated to Maori culture and the history of Maori/English conflict and resolution. The exhibits are large and welcoming, and the building's architecture is an incredible mix of airy balconies and secluded corners. Set on the third floor is a nice cafe where, of course, I visited first. In the middle of the cafe is a colorful racing bike which the placard claims was invented literally in the garage of a local bike enthusiast. Furthermore, the bike sports a radically innovative design, is built almost entirely from plastic composites, and competes extremely well against the best bikes produced by Honda, Ducati, and the likes. Sadly, they weren't for sale ... [more]

"E te imi! Tenei ke karanga, te mihi a Rongowhakaata whanui - Nau mai!

"Haere mai ki roto I te poho o to matou tipuna whare. Mauria mai o koutou mate kia tangihia tahi me o matou.

"He tangi aroha tenei whare whakairo na Raharuhi Rukupo ki tona tuakana I mate, ki a Tamati Waka Mangere, rangatira o Ngati Kaipoho. Na te aroha a te iwi tenei whare e whakamahanatia tonutia ana.

"Ko te kaupapa e tu ake ai a Te Hau ki Turanga I konei, he whakapumau I te mana o nga iwi o Rongowhakaata whanui, he whakakotahi I a tatou ko Te Papa Tongarewa, he aroha hoki ki nga iwi o te ao."

("Greetings to all our visitors!

"We, the Rongowhakaata people of the Gisborne district, welcome you to our great house called Te Hau Ki Turanga.

Te Hau Ki Turanga celebrates our history and our links with other tribes and nations. We invite you to enter, to join us in sharing our past achievements and our hopes for the future!")

"Te Hau ki... [more]