Running along the western edge of the island are a series of beaches, each successively more remote as you travel south over the steep, muddy, and often dangerous roads. However, the journey is rewarded with increasingly quiet and private beaches.

After watching all the locals and others zipping around on scooters, I decided to give it a whizz myself. The prices are incredibly reasonable ($5/US per day) and the amount of freedom it allows cannot be understated. That said, the roads can get very muddy and downright dangerous. The Blue Bomber was actually my second bike, and the first one fared much worse. It wasn't that bad - the minor damage to the mirror was magically fixed by the time I returned to it in the morning. But after wiping out and flying over the handlebars with a hallmark David Barrett tuck-n-roll landing after heading too fast through a deep puddle (versus after heading too slow through, which I did before), the bike was simply doused in mud. Like a killer after a crime of passion, I drove myself ankle-deep into a chilly stream and frantically washed the blood-red muddy evidence from the bike and I both.

Ahh... refreshing.